Ginjo

Using the “magic number” – the amount of the rice grain used to make the sake – is a simple way to get a rough idea of flavour profile so you can select the type of sake you want. 

But what if you need to decide quickly, when ordering from a sake list at a bar or restaurant? Or when you want to get a bottle as a present and have no idea what it needs to pair with? How or what do you choose?

Go straight for the middle. Look for a magic number around 60%, or the word ginjo.

Ginjo sake is made with 60% or less of the rice grain, less than futsushu, honjozo or junmai. So there’s less protein, less amino acids and less umami. The savoury character is still there, but the flavour profile shifts. Ginjo is usually noticeably sweeter, and less umami means that fruity elements produced by the yeast are able to shine through. 

This combination of umami from the outer layers of the rice grain, sweetness from the starchy core plus fruity flavours and aromas from the yeast makes ginjo sake extremely adaptable. It’s hard to go wrong when you have a bit of everything. And it’s very food-friendly, the perfect companion to a wide range of dishes.

If you check the label, you might notice some ginjo are made with much less than the required 60% of the rice grain. Some are even made with just 50%, which is technically the next class up. What’s going on?

Any sake has to qualify for the classification it has on the label, but it can also be labelled as any lower classification. For example, a sake made with 50% of the rice grain qualifies as a daiginjo (must be made with 50% or less of the grain), but also as a ginjo (60% or less) or honjozo (70% or less), or as a junmai depending on the brewing style.

The classification is left up to the brewer. For example, if a brewery’s range includes a daiginjo with a very low number, say 40%, then a sake made with 50% of the grain can be positioned as a ginjo instead.

The extremes are fun, but the middle is also a great place to be. If you’re starting out with sake and aren’t sure what you like yet, have no idea what sake you want, or want a good gift, go for ginjo.

Start exploring with an award-winning classic ginjo from popular brewery Nanbu Bijin, an anything-goes versatile junmai ginjo from Kikusui, or the elegant IWC Champion Sake 2018, Katsuyama En junmai ginjo.